Shopping Shopping Shopping

Oriental Plaza
I met Colleen at her house on Saturday morning (3rd June), and she and I (and Brody) went to Oriental Plaza for non-specific shopping. Remember that here in SA when people say “Asians”, they’re usually referring to East Indians, and that’s true of the word “Oriental”, too. Oriental Plaza is a mall, but it’s sort of open-air, like an Indian bazaar, and it is full of imports from mostly India (I did see a shop called Dubai Designs). You can find almost anything you want here – clothes, shoes, linens, cookware, jewelry, etc. Those of you who have been with me to music festivals know that I have a penchant for hippy swag, and this place is full of it. Gauzy, fun printed dresses, pillows with sparkly things, bedspreads, purses, incense, etc. I’ll go back to Oriental Plaza for that kind of stuff, but also for fabrics. I finally bought a Nelson Mandela kanga! (A kanga is a colorful piece of cloth that African women use to wrap around themselves. In some countries, like Zimbabwe, it’s worn on top of regular clothes, usually to keep your regular clothes clean when you’re working around the house or traveling on a chicken bus. In Zim, they called them “zambias.” I think in east Africa, kangas are usually a whole outfit unto themselves; you’ve got the wrap-around cloth, plus a matching piece to wrap around your head.) There are quite a few curtain stores in Oriental Plaza, and I saw some stunning fabrics. Maybe I’ll take some with me whenever I move back to the U.S. My dining room on Clairmont Avenue in Birmingham could use some curtains…

http://www.orientalplaza-fordsburg.co.za/index.htm

Artists under the Sun
Last Wednesday, I had lunch with Feng-hua Wang in Pretoria. She’s a Chinese-American who is the Information Resource Officer for Southern Africa. She’s based in the Information Resource Centre in the U.S. Embassy in Pretoria, but she visits U.S. embassy and consulate libraries in several Southern African countries, evaluates them, makes recommendations, and gives training sessions and workshops. We met briefly at Liasa last September; she had just moved here from her last post in Nairobi, Kenya, where she was doing the same thing for East African countries. She invited me to join her and another American woman at an art show at Zoo Lake here in Jo’burg on Sunday morning. It was a beautiful, sunny day, though a bit chilly, but perfect for walking around looking at art. The artists were almost exclusively painters, and there were some very nice works there. I found out that the show is there the first weekend of every month, so I didn’t make any big purchases but instead will hold off until I’ve been here awhile and have seen more things. I did buy a little bitty watercolor of two African ladies carrying things on their heads. Some of you may know that I also like to collect small watercolors that are representative of places I’ve visited. I have ones from Rome, Paris, Amsterdam, Mexico City, Beijing and Hanoi. This small one will join the collection in my hallway on Clairmont Avenue. I may also start a collection of African ladies carrying things on their heads. I already have an oil painting that I got in Zanzibar, and now the small watercolor. And I saw another acrylic painting at this show of women carrying bundles of sticks (firewood) on their heads that I liked an awful lot. But I’ll wait a bit…

http://www.artistsunderthesun.org/index.htm (not a very good site)

Rosebank Craft Market
After the visit to Zoo Lake, Feng-hua and Traci Mell (a political officer in the U.S. Embassy; she works with refugee programs; her previous post was 2 years in Pakistan!) didn’t need to get back to Pretoria right away, and we were close to the Rosebank Craft Market, so off we went. This is a huge craft market that’s held only on Sundays and public holidays on the rooftop of a mall in Rosebank. I didn’t realize just how huge it is, or I would have planned to spend more time there. As it is, I’ll have to go back. It will also be an excellent place to take visitors who want to buy presents or goods for themselves. There is all the usual crafty stuff that you see in many markets (bead work, wire work, masks, dyed and painted fabrics, caftans, wooden bowls, spoons, etc.). There’s also a largish section where you can get cheeses, dried spices in bulk, biltong (dried meat, like jerky but better; comes in beef, ostrich, kudu, and other game meats), olives in various kinds of mixes, cakes, pies, bagels (bagels! They didn’t actually look all that good, but it was amusing), and then a food court with Thai, Middle Eastern, Chinese, Portuguese and African foods. I had some beef with pap (pronounced “pop”; same thing as sadza in Zimbabwe, ugali in Swahili-speaking countries, nzima in Malawi – a cornmeal porridge kind of like polenta from Italy only lots thicker) and tomato gravy. I couldn’t eat pap every day, but I do like it every now and then, and it’s no fun to cook.

http://www.craft.co.za/index.htm

Menu from Africa Café

I think I’ve told you about Africa Café (http://www.africacafe.co.za/) in Cape Town in a much earlier post, but let me refresh your memories. It is located in the “city bowl” of Cape Town, in an 18th century Cape Georgian house. Each room has a theme. There is the Egyptian Room, the Morroccan room, and the Ndebele Room, among others. They serve dishes from all over the continent, plus some that the owner/chef, Portia, has created.

The meal begins with a hand washing ceremony. Many traditional African foods are eaten with the hands, and so it’s good to have clean ones. You hold your hands over a basin that the server holds in one hand, and she pours warm water over your hands from a pitcher in her other hand. Everything is served communal style; the server brings out bowls of each dish, and you serve your own plate and eat as much as you like. The menu appears on the sides of a round vase that sits on the table, so you can consult it during the meal if you forget what you’re eating!

So, this is what Dad and I ate when we visited on 18 March 2006.

Starters
Cassava bread (southern Africa)
Xhosa imifino patties (spinach and mealie meal patties; kind of like what we in the Southern U.S. call hot water corn cakes)
Dhania dip (coriander, tomato, chilli)
Ehtiopian iab (white curd cheese with fresh herbs)
Tunisian briouates (phyllo pastry parcels filled with potato, carrot and garlic)
Chick pea mix in phyllo parcels
Egyptian ta amya (white bean patties cooked with coriander and parsley

Salads
Morroccan cous cous (finely sliced dhania, dates, carrots, corn and garlic tossed in cous cous)
West African fish imojo (salad of fresh fish chunks, tomato and peppers)

Mains
Pumpkin curry (an Africa Café recipe)
Congolese spinach (with fresh tomato, peppers and pilchards)
Cape mussel curry
Morroccan lamb stew (tender lamb stew sweetened with dates)
Malawi chicken macadamia

Dessert
Fresh fruit kebabs
Rooibos tea or coffee

Yummy!!!

Thanksgiving Dinner

Despite having had a sick tummy since Thursday (17 Nov), I was determined to attend the Thanksgiving dinner hosted by the American Society of Johannesburg on Saturday evening. The dinner was preceded by the AGM (annual general meeting) of the society, which I attended because I wanted to get an idea of what they're about, what their activities are, etc. Still not sure whether or not I will join.

The meeting and dinner were held at Sides Restaurant in Dunkeld (http://www.tenbompas.com/Sides.htm), a somewhat posh neighborhood (located between Rosebank and Hyde Park, if any of you happen to be familiar with Jo'burg). We had the whole restaurant for the evening, and 44 folks, including kids of various ages, were expected. There were 2 long tables of 12-14 for grownups, one long table for younger kids, and one long table for older kids. Seems that last year they had kids mixed in with their parents, but that didn't allow the parents much time for socializing. One of the couples brought their housekeeper, Rosie, to watch after the little kids, and they were (thankfully) pretty well behaved.

The dinner started with some speechifying by the current president of the society, followed by the social chair who gave a talk to the little kids about the beginning and meaning of Thanksgiving. Then some of the kids made little presentations. We heard some facts about turkeys, a couple of poems, and so forth. One of the older kids said a prayer, and then we were served by the restaurant staff.

The menu:

• corn bread
• starter of either roast corn and crab soup with mild chili or grilled pear, roasted walnut rocket (arugula) salad with blue cheese dressing
• herb seasoned roast turkey with stuffing and creamed potatoes
• cranberry sauce
• vegetables (steamed broccoli, roasted butternut squash, and roasted something I never identified)
• dessert of either bourbon brownie or apple and cinnamon creme brulee

It was all yummy. Given my sore tummy, I didn't eat as much as I might normally have, but I did it justice.

During dinner, my closest companions were: Mark, an Irishman who spent some time in NYC and whose wife's father is American, so they want to introduce their kids to T'giving tradition; Linda, who was mostly raised in D.C. but has an English father and spent a lot of time in England; and Henning (from Germany) and his wife, whose name I cannot remember (from Zambia). I'm not really sure why they were there.

I'm not looking to meet lots of Americans while I'm here, but one reason I wanted to attend this event was not only to celebrate Thanksgiving with some Americans, but to hear some American accents. In this respect, I was disappointed. Seems that many of the members are women who married South African men, and they've been here for so long that they no longer sound like Americans! Still, it was a nice evening, and I'm glad I went.

Miscellanea

I haven’t been anywhere exciting lately, so I thought I’d take time to answer questions that some of you have posed. Wowee, this is long, so don’t plan to read it at one sitting! No pictures, either, since a couple of you have told me that it messes up the formatting of the text itself. I’m looking into loading pics onto a website, or possibly even starting a blog site. Stay tuned…

Food
I started off keeping a list of strange foods that I might come across, but really haven’t seen that many things. On one menu I saw a toasted bacon and banana sandwich (Jean says it’s quite nice, but I’m not so sure I’ll ever try that one), and some of the funny flavors of potato chips (crisps) include fruit chutney, beef, and fried chicken. I’ve also seen iced tea a couple of times, but it’s canned.

I can really get almost anything that I want here. I can’t always get the brands that I’m familiar with, although I did pay a little extra to get some Tabasco hot sauce and some Heinz ketchup (not that I use ketchup all that often, but now it’s there in my fridge when I need it). The fruit and veg selection is even better than what I can get in Alabama, and most of it is grown in this country. Right now, mangos, papaya and paw paws are coming into season. And the naartjes, which I had in Zimbabwe, too, are great. They’re like tangerines only smaller, sweeter and fewer seeds. I can get all the same meats available at home and more. Lots of different cuts of lamb available and I saw ostrich mince (ground ostrich) last week. I’ve seen very little fresh fish, though, and I especially miss fresh salmon and tuna.

There are a few Mexican products here, but no green or chipotle chilies. No anchovies, either (which I use to make puttanesca sauce). Fortunately, those things come in small containers and I plan to bring some back with me when I’m in the U.S. at the end of this month – next week!

I haven’t been to any fine restaurants yet, though I’m told they exist. Close to my house there are a couple of serviceable Italian places, and one of my favorite fast food places (that I also discovered while I was in Zim), Nando’s, is very close to my house. They serve Portuguese style chicken – roasted in a hot, peri-peri sauce. If I don’t get fries (chips), it’s not even fattening fast food! I’m attempting to lose some weight, so have been trying to cook at home more than going out. But if I discover any good restaurants, I’ll let you know.

Oh, I will tell you about 2 restaurants that Jean and I went to while we were traveling in July/August. One was in Grahamstown, where Rhodes University is located. They served traditional Afrikaans food. It was a buffet and you paid by the weight of your plate. I’m sorry I forgot to write down what all we had, but I do remember that there were several different kinds of meat stews, and then some interesting vegetable combination dishes. If I recall correctly, the name of the place is EAT. We did.

The other interesting place was in Cape Town, and I spotted it one afternoon as we were driving back to our guest house. It’s called Africa Café (http://www.africacafe.co.za/). Each room in the restaurant is decorated in the style of a country or tribe in Africa. There was an Egyptian room, an Ndebele room, a Ghana room, etc. Each table is served family style; the server brings out a bowl of each dish to the table and you serve yourselves. And each dish is from a different county in Africa. We had sweet potato and leek soup; couscous salad w/dates/ carrots/coriander (Morocco); several little pasties with different fillings, including chicken/almond, sweet potato/cinnamon (mostly north African countries); spinach/groundnuts/coconut milk (Tanzania); chicken with macadamia nut stew (Malawi); ostrich stew (Botswana). It was fantastic, and if anyone comes to visit me and we go to Cape Town (as you must), I’ll be sure to take you there.

Driving
I was, perhaps, more worried about driving on the left than anything else! But it really wasn’t too difficult to get used to that. The bigger challenge for me was learning to drive a stick shift! As I’ve mentioned to some of you, I did know how, but I’ve never owned a manual transmission car and so never got used to it as a matter of course. And, of course, the driving is on the right side of the car with the stick in the left hand. So, it wasn’t just a stick shift to get used to; it was a stick shift at my left hand! It really took several weeks to feel comfortable with that, knowing when to shift up, shift down, dealing with hills, etc. Just last week, I finally learned the hand brake trick when sitting at a stop on an incline!

Cats
Due to paperwork delays, my cats arrived 3 days after I did. They’d had to stay a couple of nights at a kennel in Atlanta, waiting for a document from the Alabama state veterinarian in Montgomery, and then, of course, there was that 17 hour flight in the cargo hold. They were pretty freaked out by the time they arrived at my house (picked up and delivered by a local service). They would walk around, sniffing and exploring a new area of the house, and then come back to me every few minutes for some lovin’. It took them almost three weeks to settle down back to normal. During that time, neither one was eating as much as they should (they didn’t like the new dry cat food, and I finally broke down and started giving them canned food every day), and Maggie kept hissing and striking out at Tessie whenever Tessie came near. But now they are back to being pals, and they sleep curled up next to me every night. And they’re still getting a little bit of canned food every day. Yeah, they know how to work me.

Work
The first week or so that I was here, I thought, “Well, when I get caught up on call reports, emails, etc., things will settle down to normal.” I forgot that with EBSCO, especially when you’re working in the field, calling on customers, there is never a “normal”! I guess that’s probably true in many jobs, huh?

The staff in the office here are terrific. I had that feeling when I’d visited this office a couple of times in the last few years – once when I was in Zimbabwe and I came down to visit Jean during a school term break, the other time in 2002 to do some training. They all have a very strong customer service orientation, and good work ethic. It’s nice to work with folks like that. Because it is a small office, though, they haven’t been able to spend a lot of time letting customers know about some of the additional services we can offer, like interfaces with integrated library systems that make life a little easier for the library, special reports that can help the library with financial or collection assessment of their journal collection, online services that also can help with the processing workflow, etc. Those are all things that I’m pretty familiar with, having been an account services manager for 7 years before I went into Peace Corps, so there hasn’t been a big learning curve for me in coming to work for this office. Jim Stephens, the recently retired president of EBSCO, used to say that your best prospect is an existing customer. Many of the university libraries here are at least partial EBSCO customers, so I’ll mostly be calling on people who are already familiar with some of the things we do. That makes it a little easier for me.

Politics/Americans
Several of you have asked (and I suspect more of you are wondering) how Americans are viewed here, and how have I been treated/accepted. Well, it’s a mixed bag. One on one, people have been nice, especially customers that I meet. Well, let’s face it – to make a generalization, librarians are a pretty nice lot. The second week that I was here, there was a national holiday – Women’s Day – and my neighbor, a real estate agent, invited me to a luncheon that she had organized. There was a singer, a motivational speaker and a nice lunch. Bunch of middle-aged housewives, mostly, very sort of garden club-ish and not really my kind of thing, but I didn’t have anything better to do, so I went. Some of us won door prizes, and I got a great big basket with all kinds of bath products – soaps, lotions, candles, bath salts, etc. Well, I really didn’t need all that stuff, so I shared with the ladies at my table. One of them said, “That’s why I love Americans! They’re so generous!” Okay, I thought. So maybe I won’t have a hard time here.

Since then, though, I’ve had a couple of very intense conversations where I felt compelled to defend Americans. Not our president or government (sorry to you few Republicans on this list, but I think you all know that I’m a bleeding heart liberal), who I don’t feel a need to defend, but actual U.S. citizens. I told Claudia that I wanted to say to one person (in response to exactly what, I don’t remember), “That’s like saying that your President Botha was a racist, so all white South Africans must be racist and deserve to be punished.” That conversation upset me so much that I had to excuse myself to go have a good cry in the ladies room. Maybe I was also feeling a little bit homesick…

So, when you hear that there is anti-American sentiment abroad, believe it. People have not been hostile to me, individually, but Americans, as a group, are not looked on kindly right now. They view us as spoiled and greedy, and I can’t honestly always disagree with that.

Well, one of you asked if black South Africans view us differently from white South Africans. Very astute question, and the answer, I think, is yes. Some of the black South Africans that I’ve talked with still view the U.S. as the land of opportunity. If they could just get there, they think they’ll be able to make lots more money and live in luxury, as they think most of us do. And compared to the way that some of them do still live, we do live in complete and utter luxury. When I get to give presentations about Zimbabwe and/or Peace Corps (one at EBSCO, a couple of schools, and a couple of Boy Scout troops), one of the things that I share are some statistics comparing the U.S. and Zimbabwe. When I come to the one about the number of television sets, I stop and ask, “If you have a television set in your home, raise your hand.” Pause, then, “If you have two television sets, keep your hand raised.” And so on. Sometimes I get up to 5 or 6 before all hands are down.

How many television sets do you have?

Love,
Katy G.

PS After that last little lecture, I feel compelled to admit that I’ve started exploiting the black lower class myself. Last week I hired a housekeeper. I am, however, paying her more than what her other employers pay, which is shockingly low. Her name is Angeline. She’s maybe 10 years older than I and has had very little schooling. Consequently, she has very little English, so I’m going to try to learn some greetings and other words in Setswana, her home language (there are 11 national languages here, have I mentioned that?). I’ll also admit that I love having her here once/week. I wasn’t used to needing to mop all the time (tile floors and loads of dust in the air), or to having no clothes dryer, which requires planning for laundry time.